The idea of opening a restaurant in Valencia dedicated to Canary Island food is daring to say the least, and yet it is already one of my favourites, and a place I shall return to without a doubt.
Yellow and blue predominate when you walk in, especially on the tandem hanging on the far wall. Yet when you start to look closer, you come across a collection of photos, both old and new of the islands, as well as some tasteful artwork.
It’s obviously been a labour of love, and then we realised that it is in the same hands as the bar in front, Dandy Horse, run by Sara Amador. See our article:
Gentle ethnic music conjures up the swaying banana trees and abrupt mountainous and volcanic landscapes of the islands, and a little bit of sub-tropical paradise appears in every dish.
We ate there on a Friday lunchtime and were offered a generous tasting menu with three starters, main course, dessert and for a mere 11 euros, and there was even a freebie of dehydrated sweet potato while we waited.
All the dishes were served on bright, attractive ceramic plates, showing again the care and attention to detail that has gone into the place.
Lamps made from olive branches and even a piano, which I resisted playing on doctor’s orders, complement the bright, airy atmosphere, with half of one side consisting of a large window onto the kitchen, where our chefs laboured productively.
The house wine was La Quarantamaula from Sinarcas, perfectly acceptable at 8 euros.
The first starter was wrinkled potatoes with two mojo sauces, very typical of the islands and tastefully executed.
Wholemeal bread arrived with the second starter, a salad with chicken, avocado, tomato, pickled onion and mini corn cob. There was also a touch of petals to add some extra colour and flavour.
The final starter was agromonte, a paté made from a strong Canary cheese served with tomatoes.
For the main dish I chose arepa and was served a corn-based pita bread with vegetables, although other fillings were on offer.
Again, remarkably tasty, although simple and healthy at the same time, and served up with avocado and beetroot sauces.
We also tried the cod, which like everything else was carefully prepared and elegantly presented.
There was, inevitably a banana tart among the desserts and a free banana liqueur at the end to aid the digestion before we went off to the gastronomy fair in the river bed.
They do tasting menus for groups too.
Dandy Canary is at Carrer d’Antoni Suárez, 23, a street with various restaurants parallel to Avenida Aragon.
They close on Sundays.
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