El Palmar, a genuinely fishermans’ village perched on the Albufera lake, is a popular Sunday attraction by those who like good food and some authentic atmosphere. It has more restaurants than residents and is teeming with life at the weekend, which is why a midweek visit is a must.
Nou Racó offers a midweek menu that is truly special (and no, they are not paying me to say this!) experience. For 25€ (30 if you choose to include a bottle of wine between two) you get three starters, a rice dish and a boat trip on the lake with a glass of Cava to facilitate your embarcation.
You also get a boatman who whines about his personal problems, but that just make the experience all the more ‘authentic.
Nou Racó has spacious grounds with various areas to lounge and sip your Cava, and also an original children’s playground made out of wood instead of plastic, although the experience was ruined when I had to be told it was for children only.
There are various dining rooms as it largely makes its money with events and weddings. We were lucky to have a table in a room with some typical Valencian ceramics and a view of the lake.
The three shared starters in our case were Tartar of smoked sardine with tomato and avocado, cod in batter with pine nuts and garlic mayonnaise (ali oli) and mussels cooked in kimchee sauce and onion.
There was also a dessert, horchata torrija (a kind of pudding).
And of course the rice, served on your table in the paella as it should be. What’s more nobody blinked an eye when we asked for a container to take home the generous leftovers, although they probably scoffed in the kitchen!
The service was perfect, and they must pay their waiters better than most as they were friendly and helpful; but most importantly they laughed at my inane comments.
Nou Racó, previously known as Racó del Olla, can be found at Carretera del Palmar, 21, just before the village.
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