Bacco: a Light Meal

If you like fairy lights with your lunch and wish it could be Christmas every day (an exhausting idea) then you will assuredly enjoy Bacco d.o.c


The word ‘grotty’ will never be heard there, although ‘grotto’ springs to mind.


It would be an easy joke to say that whoever decorated this place must have been plastered, but then I would never avoid a joke just because of its complexity, and the fact of the matter is that you already one of the five senses sated long before they bring the food.


Stalactites and stalagmites abound, and you could be forgiven for not especially noticing the food when it arrives.

The menu cost €9.90 with three options for each course, and the fish stew and pesto pasta I had were quite acceptable.

The wine list was extensive and covered most of the geography of Spain.

But I couldn’t focus; I kept wondering who commissioned the giant rose on the ceiling and who took the time to create that mosaic floor.


A good restaurant if you are taking your guests there to sign a complicated contract or explain an infidelity.

Bacco is to be found floating in a haze of light and hypnotic music in C/ Los Derechos,29.



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