La Vermuteria, Castellón

Never having atended the Magdalena festival in Castellón, we went there one rainy Sunday, and having discovered that the whole city was out marching to and from the mountain from which the festival takes its name, we went looking for victuals and came across La Vermuteria, founded, if the sign is to be believed, in 1858, although it looked a bit more modern than that.

It was packed when we arrived, which is a good sign, and was offering a special Magdalena menu with three starters, a main course and dessert.

The specials were a carpaccio with a strong garlic sauce, potatoes with foie and an ample salad with salmon and avocado, which I had believed to be my own invention, though obviously not.

Of the four main dishes I opted for the cow’s cheek, a rich meat cooked to perfection in a wine sauce.

A little boy at the next table kept running into the toilet for some reason and so, curiosity aroused, I sauntered in there for a look, to discover the space age hand drier that obviously had him fascinated

The austere white tiles reminded me of British public toilets from the 50s, so quite a nostalgic visit really.

The waiters were all very friendly despite the rush and the restaurant offers some interesting dishes apart from the menu, such as marrow (not something you often find, even if you want to) and Canary Island dishes like small, wrinkled potatoes in a spicy sauce, or pluma, which means feather according to my dictionary, and so I could only imagine it was some game bird blasted to nothingness by a festive hunter.

La Vermuteria is in C/ Ruiz Zorrilla 10, and you can eat in the street, weather permitting.