Ma Khin is my kind of restaurant, to paraphrase Ol Blue Eyes; and as its founder, British/Burmese chef Stephen Anderson claims, it is ‘going slowly, coming nicely’.
Ma Khin is slow food personified, because they actually cook it rather than reheat it, and it’s immediately noticeable that much thought has gone into both the conception and the execution.
There is a daily lunch menu for 16€, or there are two menus, a 25€ taster menu, and the 32€ Ma Khin classics.
As we were being treated by Scottish pensioners, and as both Scots and pensioners have a reputation for thrift, we went for the most expensive.
There were seven superb dishes, plus a dessert of sticky toffee pudding.
The highlight for me was the fried oyster with ponzu, served in their shells. Ponzu as you are no doubt aware is a Japanese sauce using citrus fruits, and like everything else on the menu, created interesting contrasts that had us ooing and aaing, for wan of a competent, gourmet vocabulary.
The pork and prawn gyozas also hit the mark, and as you know, gyozas are little Japanese pastries, with a dumpling-like texture.
The Malabari fish curry with coconut, mustard seed and tamarind was served when we were already on our third bottle from the original wine list, and so its carefully combined and contrasted flavours were challenging and uplifting at the same time.
The duck Vindaloo launched us across to the other side of the Asian continent,
as did the Ma Khin chicken croquettes in Thai red curry.
Ma Khin is Stephen’s homage to his grandmother, whose story is told on the serving mats and elsewhere, and whose image is the restaurant’s hallmark.
Ma Khin has in a short space of time become a popular venue for those who like the exotic, and who like to take their leisure time slowly; like pensioners.
Ma Khin is located downstairs in the ever trendier Colon Market.
All photos by Mark Sicon
Read more about Stephen Anderson here: