Ca Pepe: a Witches’ Brew

I hadn’t been to El Saler for a long time, as I live on the other side of Valencia, to the north of the city. I didn’t even realise that the name derives from salt.

To put that right, we drove up/down there on a quiet Tuesday morning in September and had a wander along the beach, by the recovered dunes and under the canopy of pine trees that make up this green lung for the city.

Ca Pepe is one of the oldest restaurants in the area, if not the oldest, opened in 1962 and not much changed since then judging by the photos. I’m assured that Ca is short for Casa, although the older I get, the less inclined I am to trust anybody.

Outside is a terrace, but a bit close to traffic for my liking. There are also three or four other restaurants that have clustered around the original.

Inside it has an oldie worldie feel, with ceramic walls and photos of old people and old practices, and amusing little signs to keep you on your toes.

I believe there is also a first floor dining room, although I only got as far as the toilets, up a short flight of stairs, which give you a nice view of the mine eating area, although I don’t suppose they could claim to be wheelchair-friendly. Mind you the waiter was very friendly and would probably sling you over his shoulder if needs be.

There are various weekend and weekday menus, but we were enticed by the wild mushroom, artichoke and squid risotto rice (arroz meloso), which was very tasty, with the saffron flavour standing out, and was served in a large, black metal cauldron, from which two people could easily extract six helpings.

Witches of course come to mind, and perhaps a broomstick to help get up those bloody stairs.

Just behind the restaurant are a few streets, where you can find the Casa de la Demanà, now a civic centre, where they used to hand out the fishing licences for the different parts of the Albufera Lake.

Across the motorway you can find boats to take you out on the lake, especially advisable at sunset, when the light is bewitching and the fish are leaping.

What’s more, you don’t even have to drive. The number 25 bus from the centre of Valencia will take you at a leisurely pace through the rice fields to the door.

On the other side of the street is a road and pedestrian path which will take you to the beach in a mere 15 minutes, breathing in that heady aroma of pine, as if you were in the cleanest bathroom in the world.

I leave you with that refreshing thought.

Avenida Pinares 18 bajo, El Saler